Set in the countryside of Umbria, in the town of Perugia is one of the world’s most leading cashmere brands

It’s a picturesque place, reminiscent of Tuscany and just as intoxicating. Not many may know that Umbria is one of the biggest international producers of cashmere. It’s the place to go for this soft yet durable textile, and since Italy has given the world the gift of fashion, it should be no surprise that they know what to do with cashmere. This boot-shaped country has always been a bastion for the arts, as prince’s and ruling families financially contributed to the work of artists and craftsmen. And Rocco Ragni is a product of what makes Italy so special.

On the bottom floor of his atelier is where a lot of the magic happens. It’s where clothes are made. There’s a section for weaving, a section to assemble parts of, for example, a sweater, a space for quality control, and a space for packing. On the second floor is another type of magic, the offices for staff, Ragni’s office, and the latest collection on display.

In 2019 Ragni was nominated by the President of the Italian republic, and bestowed the Knight of Honor of Merit of the Republic. Why? Because Ragni contributed to making Italy known abroad, giving the country prestige. During the honor ceremony he was given a medal and the right of affixing the title of Knight (abbreviated Cav.) to his name.

In his own words, Ragni details how cashmere came to be an important textile in Perugia and how it came to be that he began working with it. Ever so down-to-earth and kind, there’s something from Ragni’s story that we can all relate to, and practical life application that we can glean from and apply to our own lives, the most important being: sharing smiles with others and appreciating nature.

Seele Magazine: Can you explain how cashmere became central to Perugia? 

Rocco Ragni: The processing of cashmere in the last decades and of the knit before, is all due to Luisa Spagnoli. It was Luisa who almost, 100 years ago, with the patented idea of ​​making angora yarn from rabbits, started the tradition of high-quality knitwear in Perugia, creating an important concept with a know-how that has been handed down from generations.

SM: Why is cashmere a medium that you enjoy working with?

RR: Emotion, because when you wear it, it's soft, reminding me of a hug. Tradition, because it was a garment in times past that was a part of the wardrobe of those who could afford it. Cashmere is a textile that was used in past centuries as a resistant and warm garment, also to be handed down to one's children and grandchildren. Color, because with this yarn you can obtain special colors to create unique garments. Style and Design, because I am reminded of a model of a dress that I made many years ago, based on a fabric dress, which is almost impossible to make in knitwear, but the final result was gorgeous.

SM: How did growing up in an ancient and historical village impact you as a designer?

RR: Living in a historical village has its pros and cons but the pros outweigh the cons. The cons are certainly all the convenient services that a city offers, and that you cannot have in a historical village. But, the pros on the other hand have been fundamental for the development of my creativity and personality, for having a true and positive vision of people. For me, Perugia is like living in a big extended family, with my own relatives and with people from other families.

I was the only child in the village, all the adults loved me and gave me so much affection- I still remember the many smiles. I was lucky enough to receive so much sincere love that today I try to pass on to the people I meet. The village which is in the countryside has made me and still makes me see all that nature has in store for us, from the colors that change with each season, to the diversity and uniqueness of every single plant that takes on its flowers or its leaves. 

It's likened to every dress I create today, though different from every dress in its style, personality, and color.

SM: Did you go to fashion design school or are you self-taught?

RR: I didn't go to any fashion school. My mother wanted to send me to the Academy of Fine Arts because I was very good at drawing but I was very shy at the time, so I chose a school where my friends also went. 

I am therefore self-taught. My grandmother was a seamstress and my mother had a small knitting workshop. I saw them work and from an early age I started cutting fabrics, sewing small dresses by hand for my older sister's dolls with the scraps of fabrics that were not used. 

I was fascinated by the knitting machines, that with a simple movement, I was able to quickly create strips of knitted creations at various sizes. I enjoyed putting the colors together, consciously creating rows of truly beautiful combinations. 

From there my future started without me even realizing what was happening.

SM: Please describe your brand (the aesthetic) and process of creating looks.

RR: My brand is very much reflected in nature, in respect for the environment that surrounds us, and in the passion that people use to make the pullovers or dresses I create. Just as nature has its colors in the various seasons, my collections have their colors according to the seasons. 

I always use white in my collections, in winter it makes me think of the whiteness and lightness of the snow, in summer it makes me think of a fresh linen dress. I use a lot of color for spring and summer, and colder tones for autumn and winter collections. When I create a look, initially I never start from the drawing, but I do the reverse, I start from the yarn or fabric that I choose and create something that can give maximum prominence both to the yarn or fabric, and to the person who will wear the creation. I always start from the main piece, and then I create a look with it.