The AW24 collection delves into what it means to dress the human form

There is always a method to the beautiful madness of an Issey Miyake collection, and their autumn-winter 2024 collection, themed “What Has Always Been” is no different. Held at the Palais de la Porte Dorée, or Palace of Golden Gate, the collection delves into the simple fact that there are things that have always been. Not focusing on what has been created, the human body the House notes has always been. And in that context, the origin of clothing to the human body is innate art. To detail this the House organizes itself into 9 categories.

“The act of clothing the human body is something that predates garment making. Engagement in this act leads to a discovery of drapery, layering, folding and twisting, and asymmetrical composition, as well as ma (the unfilled space) and playfulness—all resulting in clothing in its most natural form with little manipulation. A piece of clothing created in this manner transcends the notion of a garment,” states the House in collection notes. For creative director Satoshi Kondo, the ideas of the collection are original, and not defined by any certain context.

The opening looks of knit are Asagao one of the nine categories. Done in seamless knit their shapes are reminiscent of the form of a flower. A rib knit embodies the bodice and sleeves, while a garter knit makes up the cuffs and hem giving the looks their 3D shape. Taking it a step further, the sleeves wrap around the neck or body, or can be worn as a hat for a bit of fun. So, it is a practical collection.

Pleats please! The Wander category is all about pleats, which are done by hand on sheer textiles of transparent polyester yarns, giving way to a mysterious nomadic wanderer. Looks in the envision category evoke a sculptural idea. Using the same washi blend fiber found in the SS24 collection, allows for the strong shapes around the torso. Enclothe pants made from tricatate and linen give the look an asymmetrical shape giving a wide width. Enclothe washi and wool looks are all about draping and flamboyant silhouettes. Behind the Scenes also done in knit are made with yarns that would otherwise get discarded in production.

After the show and later that evening, the brand opened its store at 28 Rue Francois, where friends of the House gathered over champagne and cocktails to see the two-story space surrounded by the shapely silhouettes ready for public consumption.