He is continuing with his Ancora theme for the start of Milan Men’s FW24 fashion week

Well, Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci is unlike Alessandro Michele or Tom Ford’s Gucci. He has come into the famed Italian House, shaking up codes and doing things in his own sartorial way. Today Gucci unveiled its men’s Fall Winter 2024 collection, and Sarno shifted the location from Gucci Hub to an industrial area in another part of Milan. But, one thing stayed the same, Mark Ronson, the famed British DJ, returned as Music Director with a new song, Masculinity by Lucky Love.

Discover the collection below

Continuing the Ancora (meaning still) theme, which the House unveiled in September, and which was Sarno’s first collection during women’s week, we see new silhouettes that are modern yet refined, all done in a subversive way. Lots of fitted double-breasted jackets, long coats that touch the ground, cropped pants with zipped side slits; and the GG monogram is contemporized, set on leather, wool, and cotton, giving a new dimension. Gucci’s iconic loafers are given rubber soles, as they were in the September women’s show. An accessory not missing on the runway, The Jackie bag, is reimaged from the archives with its snap-hook closure. Taking it all in the front row were husband-wife duo, Idris and Sabrina Elba.

“It is a story of fabulous, diverse people; it’s Getty images of cool people of all ages, and it’s inclusive as in everyone is welcomed. It’s a story of movies, of my beloved Italy, of intellectuals and travels around the world but still feeling at home wherever you are,” says Sarno in notes from the House.

It was also a way for Gucci to round out the week, as Taylor Swift wore a glittering green Sarno created gown on the Golden Globes red carpet on Sunday. And, it was a great way for the House to lead the start of men’s Milan Fashion Week with other top brands from Prada, Giorgio Armani, and Dolce & Gabbana.

Also seated front row was François-Henri Pinault, the Chairman and CEO of Kering, the multinational corporation Gucci sits under. It was a bittersweet moment when Michele exited Gucci. He brought flavor to the House during his six years there by instituting minimalism and capturing the attention of many celebrities like Jared Leto. So, the bigwigs at Kering and Gucci, particularly Jean-Francois Palus, now the House’s CEO, took their time to fill the creative direction seat, and Sarno, with his expertise from Valentino, was their pick. Michele was flamboyant in his sartorial storytelling, Sarno is subversive. After his first two collections, it’s safe to say that Sarno is his own man, and will create his own signature style during his time at Gucci.