Gherardo Felloni Takes Roger Vivier Back To The 1960s For Their AW24 Collection
Optical art and the 60s heavily inspired this collection
The new Roger Vivier “Vivier Op-tical” collection, under the direction of creative director Gherardo Felloni, is inspired by the Op Art movement that took France by storm in the 1960s. Handbags, shoes, accessories, and jewelry galore, shows how the brand’s namesake founder’s use of paper collages illuminated the brand’s current modernity of romantic fantasia.
Every season the House unveils its new collection at a grand, century-old Parisian hôtel. As guests walked up the red carpet and entered the building, they were met with an optical illusion of spiraled black and white shapes. Walking through the Black and White room felt like an episode of “The Twilight Zone.” There on display was the Viv’ Choc handbag, done in different styles and different textiles of leather, tweed, and stripes.
Actors Naomie Harris from the James Bond films, Kelly Rutherford, and Camille Razat from Emily in Paris had all viewed the collection, as well as Georgia May Jagger, Paris Jackson, and Naomi Campbell.
Born just seven years after the turn of the century, Monsieur Roger Vivier was known as the Fabergé of footwear. His creations were out of this world, unique, and bold. Mastering the art of shoemaking, his brand strives to continue his vision and aesthetic. The knit cuissardes boots, Flower Staff Jewel bags in leather, the Belle Vivier pumps with the House’s Pilgrim buckle is an ode to the unique touches you find on a Roger Vivier shoe. The Viv’Podium ballerina shoe with ankle strap and metal heel is a nod to this.
The black and white stripes were not only for an optical illusion, but also a reminder of Monsieur Vivier’s love of animals. On the second floor was the Zebra Room, with designs inspired from the archives. Fringes go back to ancient Mesopotamia, not just the era of Woodstock, and Felloni and his team brought back this retro style for boots and vests.
Seen viewing the collection was iconic French actress Catherine Deneuve. The Belle Vivier shoe was inspired by a shoe from her 1965 film, Belle de Jour. After viewing the collection Deneuve could be seen sipping something hot in the café downstairs. And scattered throughout were demonstrations of craftsmen and women with live activations, showing how a Roger Vivier shoe is made. An original and thought-out collection, it’ll make any woman weak at the knees for the optical designs and animal inspired print products.
Header image by: Gregoire Vieille