Pierpaolo Piccioli Plays With Femininity and Masculinity In Valentino’s AW20 Collection

VALENTINO PAP FW20.21 - Pierpaolo Piccioli Valentino Creative Director - Finale.jpg

Pierpaolo Piccioli surprised us all at Valentino’s womenswear AW20 show in Paris. Unlike Hedi Slimane, Pierpaolo isn’t predictable, and missing from this collection are his typical volumes and bright colors. This collection is all about tailoring and fluidity- incorporating masculinity into the femininity. There is quite a bit of tailored menswear looking pieces, but then you find under a military style coat, an embroidered blouse that brings in the femininity. He wanted to be sure to bring how how humans are different and the same, and this is what brings humanity together.

Also, where Pierpaolo brought in a lot of color in past collections, autumn-winter 2020 is filled mainly with dark colors and the classic Valentino red. Floral prints and embroidery were not missing, as we have seen in past collections, but they were done mostly in grayscale on the fronts of jackets and coats.

In the 89-piece collection there is quite a clash and contrast. It was even in the music for the show, as models strutted down the runway to a Billie Eilish track, while Le Traffic Quintet performed live to a tune of the contrasting collection that Pierpaolo surprised us with. With feminine looks there is something for the woman of the Levant, who gravitates more to the classical and the refined. And for the fluid masculine punk elements of rebellion- from the make-up of the models on the runway to the thick combat boots- Pierpaolo has incorporated something for the Riyadh woman who enjoys the streetwear trend taking over that city.

Ally Portee

Starting out in the world of politics, Ally interned and worked in Washington, DC, in Congress, at The White House, on political campaigns. Today she’s in a totally different arena: fashion. Developing an eye for sartorial craftsmanship, Ally has learned how to put intricate and detailed collections into words, while developing relationships with some of the world's most leading brands and covering Paris, Milan, and Riyadh Fashion Week shows. Ally started SEELE in 2012. Seele [say-la] is the German word for Soul and its aim is to encourage people with faith-inspired and lifestyle content that stir the soul. Ally has written for Forbes, Harper’s Bazaar, The Hollywood Reporter, GQ Middle East, Vogue Arabia, Refinery29, NPR, Arabian Business, and Euronews.

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