SEELE’s Guide to Jerusalem
It is possible to still fly to Jerusalem
It’s ancient, it’s unique, it’s a city that’s the nucleus of the Abrahamic faiths, and it’s Jerusalem. Point blank it’s a complicated place politically, religiously, and societally. But, no matter your faith, nationality, or background, there is a place for everyone. When the Abraham Accords between Arab nations and Israel were signed in August 2020, it ushered in a new era of commercial and political relations between Israel and its Arab neighbors, making it possible for Muslims to visit Jerusalem, a place of importance to their Islamic faith.
What’s great about Jerusalem is that there are many unique neighborhoods to get lost in. The Old City and its stone alleyways and souk-like stalls make it a kinesthetic hotspot of culture and faiths. There is no city like Jerusalem and even with security risks, it’s a place that must be visited.
Where to Breakfast
Breakfast at Café Kadosh. A Jerusalem fixture for fifty-five years, it’s admired for its classic French style of hominess and warmth. Located in Mamilla, a Jerusalem neighborhood of restored stone buildings, as well as jewelry and designer fashion boutiques. And more specifically, on Shlomtzion Hamalka Street, you can find Israeli politicians and civil servants popping in to grab a patisserie delight, or lunch in or outside on pasta and quiche- not to mention the array of tasty coffees and teas. Known for their pastries, you’ll be mesmerized and filled with filled donuts, croissants- some are stuffed, knafeh between donuts, and so much more to start your day and keep you full with all the sites that the city has to offer.
Souk-like shopping
This is one of the main places that must be visited. The Old City is a labyrinth of stone streets and side alleys made up of four quarters: Jewish, Armenian, Christian, and Muslim, that make for the most unique and satisfying of shopping. Here you find practical and souvenir items. But it’s important to remember, people do live in the Old City and worship there as well.
Where to stay
The American Colony Hotel: is 100+ years old and has serviced well known personalities. Several buildings make up the hotel from the Main House, to the Palm House, the East House, and the Cow Byre. So, room styles reflect the building they are located in. But, what takes the cake are the exquisite garden grounds filled with olive trees and other types of trees, as well as shaded courtyards, vibrant flowers, and nature-like ambience. There are several on site restaurants from The Arabesque, The Courtyard, Val’s Brasserie, The Terrace Café, The Cellar Bar, and The Summer Bar. As for wellness there is an outdoor pool, a beauty lounge, massage villa, fitness center, and sauna.
The Sites
Temple Mount: From the Old City, the Temple Mount is right there and is a must visit. It holds significance for both Jews and Muslims, as the former believe it’s the spot for the Divine Presence on earth, the Western Wall, and the dust from the site was used to create Adam. While Muslims believe it’s the site where Mohammed ascended into Heaven, and worship at the al-Aqsa Mosque. Its gold dome is recognized around the world, and its call-to-prayer, which symbolizes Islam’s second pillar: prayer permeates the air. Only Muslims are allowed to enter the mosque now, but it’s possible to still admire it from the outside.
Western Wall: Is important to Jews and Christians. As you descend upon the Wall, men are directed to the left, while women are directed to the right. Touching the wall, you will find many Jews with their prayer books shuckling [moving to the front and back r rhythmically as they pray]. Many write messages and tuck it into the cracks in the Wall. It’s 164 feet long and 65 feet high, with taupe colors. It’s a magnificent structure and even if you’re not religious, it’s a moving place to visit.
Garden of Gethsemane: Just outside the Old City and the Western Wall is the Garden of Gethsemane. Located in the Mount of Olives, it holds significance for Christians, but you find Muslims praying at the Church of All Nations, the church on site. It’s where, according to the four Gospels in the New Testament of the Bible, Jesus prayed in agony before he was arrested and crucified. Covered in well-manicured 2,000-year-old olive trees, with plants and flowers throughout, it’s a solemn and quiet place.
Where to Lunch
Looking for variety? Then, the Mahane Yehuda Market is the place to rest for a moment, and grab lunch. Here you find over 250 vendors selling cheeses, nuts, spices, seeds, baked goods, vegetables, fruits and so much more. It’s sooque-style, and it also has a variety of restaurants to choose from like Fish N Chips, which has classic British fish and chips. There are also burgers for those who aren’t the seafood type. Azura serves a mixture of Sephardic, Tunisian, Kurdish, and Iraqi dishes like kubbeh soup, a dough stuffed with pine nuts and meat. At Machaneyuda you can see the chef preparing your meal. The pasta with lemon butter, spinach, and artichokes are to die for. If you’re in a group there is something for everyone.
Museum
Yad Vashem: This museum is one of the most moving museums you’ll visit in the city, and it’s the second most visited place in Jerusalem after The Western Wall. Admission is free and a must do when in the city. It’s the country’s official Holocaust memorial, solely dedicated to the 6 million Jews that lost their life under Nazism. It takes about two hours, so bring your walking shoes. And, be sure to do the tour with a guide. One thing that stands out in the tour are the many Muslim communities around the world, like in Albania that aided Jews during the Holocaust, hiding them in their homes. Do be sure to visit the Garden of the Righteous Among the Nation, which recognizes non-Jews who took an active role to help protect Jews during the Holocaust period.