Paul Smith Takes Over Pitti Uomo With A Café Ambience Amongst Well Tailored Menswear
Plus, the brand announces a new collaboration with a US clothing company
Pitti Uomo is one of menswear’s most renowned fashion weeks. It’s relaxed yet full of so much energy and creativity. Paul Smith, one of the premier luxury brands with tailored know-how presented a collection during to start off the event. Presented by Sir Paul himself, the designer opted to walk a select group through his 1960s inspired collection, sharing his insights and innovations for each look.
Sir Paul explaining the collection to a select group of attendees | Photo Credit: Paul Smith
Photo Credit: Paul Smith
And it’s no wonder that he chose this relaxed style to launch this new collection. Sir Paul is such a down to earth person, showing great care and concern to guests that desire to see his collections. Choosing Villa Favard, a 19th century villa in the heart of Florence, Italy, Sir Paul not only held a presentation but he did it in bar-like ambience. Calling the space Bar Paul, it was a nod to the Italian cafes that the designer visited in Soho [London] in the 60s. “Typically open all night, these cafes were a place for people to go after the likes of the Scene Club, Flamingo Club, and Whiskey-A-Go-Go had closed for the evening,” shared the brand in collection notes. “Naturally, they drew a bohemian crowd of musicians, artists, and designers who helped to make Soho the epicenter of the creative world at that moment in time.”
A few days leading up to the presentation, the brand showed the set-up process, setting the space with café tables, napkins, coffee cups, sugar packets, and match boxes with ‘Bar Paul’ written on them to give a more personal bar feel and the after-hours meet ups that the Soho artist set was known to congregate at.
The collection is fit for an artist. The silhouettes are loose fitting like the ties, some pieces are colorful while some are monotone, and there are perfect evening looks of unstructured blazers in cotton canvas with embroidered detailing. Using Prince of Wales textiles and houndstooth add a touch of sophistication to looks that look very much artist-like. The oversized trench in dark brown and spring green is a highlight. Francis Bacon, who co-founded a Soho club and Lucien Freud, a British painter were inspiration for Sir Paul when designing. In the presentation space, art materials are seen in the background, provided by Winsor & Newton. And the seating was provided by Artek.
Sir Paul announced a new project coming in 2025 with US denim brand Lee ®. It was in the early 70s that he imported painter pants from Lee, selling them in his Nottingham shop (his first shop). The brand calls this a full circle moment, where a capsule collection of printed denim, jacquard pants, woven tops, and t-shirts will be created.
Touches of Bar Paul | Photo Credit: Paul Smith
Touches of Bar Paul | Photo Credit: Paul Smith
To make the Bar Paul a success, Sir Paul enlisted a team of creatives to help: Styling - Julian Ganio, Casting - Ben Grimes, Hair - Stelios Chondros, Make-Up - Mel Arter, and Music - Andrew Hale.